Application

Strand test

Many women admit to never performing a strand or sensitivity test, let alone doing it every time they use a home hair colour product or switch shades yet this simple procedure is an essential part of the home-colouring process and will help to avoid home hair-colour problems.

TEST 1

SENSITIVITY TEST – to test for allergies and sensitive skin

Why is it necessary?

A minority of people can develop irritation or allergic reactions to hair colourants at any time. Please carry out this test 48 hours prior to each application.

  1. Wash a small area of skin inside your elbow or behind your ear. Dry it gently but thoroughly.
  2. Wearing the gloves provided, apply a drop of your chosen Smart Colour mixture to this area, or behind the ear, with a cotton bud.
  3. Allow to dry and leave for 48 hours. If during this period you experience any irritation, redness, swelling or burning, rinse immediately with cool water. It is likely you are allergic to an ingredient in this product and should not continue with colouring.

TEST 2

STRAND TEST – to preview shade results

Why is it necessary?

  • This test will check the resulting colour shade and condition of the hair.
  • A strand test is the only reliable way to preview the new shade.
  • It tests your hair’s compatibility with our product.
  • It also provides you with your own personal development time, by giving you information about the outcome of colouring in advance, so adjustments can be made to development time before the full application.
  • From the strand-test results, you can either add or subtract colours to enhance or cancel different undertones present in the test strands.
  • Always thoroughly dry the test strand to check for the accurate colour and for breakage or damage.
  • Do not be afraid of doing more than one test strand before performing complete application.
  • You must carry out a strand test every time you colour your hair, as results may vary.
  • Preparing the test colour mixture as per the instruction leaflet.
  1. Cut a small piece of hair and tie one end securely with a piece of sticky tape or cotton.
  2. Wash the hair sample with shampoo. Do not use 2-in-1 shampoos.
  3. Dry thoroughly and lay on a piece of kitchen foil or clingfilm.
  4. Wearing the gloves provided, apply the remaining test mixture to the hair sample.
  5. Every 10 minutes (every 20 minutes for Smart Colour Permanent and Smart Highlights) scrape back the mixture and check the colour result.
  6. Re-apply the mixture over the test strand and repeat the 10-minute (or 20-minute) checks until the desired colour is achieved. Make a note of your development time and write it in the box.
  7. When your chosen time is up, wipe the excess product from the strand, rinse and dry.
  8. Review the results to improve your full colouring results:

Insufficient coverage? Increase the development time up to a maximum of 1 hour.

Colour result too rich? Decrease the development time by up to 10 minutes.

If you remove the mixture too early, the colour will not have processed fully – too late, you may over process the colour.

For complete grey coverage it may be necessary to increase the development time.

SHADE RESULTS

The shade result can be influenced by many factors: condition of hair, previous treatments, natural hair colour, porosity, length and fineness of hair.

Always carry out a strand test before application.

FINAL CHECK

Before you continue, check the following:

  1. If you are happy that you have not experienced any adverse reactions from the skin sensitivity test, proceed with final application.
  2. If you are happy with the condition of your hair after the strand test (it is not brittle etc), proceed with final application.
  3. If you are happy with the colour result, proceed with final application following the instructions and your recorded development time exactly.

TEST 4

TONER APPLICATION – For Smart Blonde only
  1. Wearing the gloves provided, carefully open sachet No.4. Apply a small amount of cream on to your test strand.
  2. Leave for between 2-10 minutes as per the chart.
  3. Using warm water, rinse the test strand until the water runs clear.
  4. If using Platinum toner and the strand remains a lilac colour, DO NOT PROCEED with final application. This is due to the hair being extremely porous and retaining the base pigments.
Hair dyes contain chemicals and as such should be treated with care.

Although most Smart Beauty hair colours do not contain PPD, which is the main causes of adverse reactions, if you have sensitive skin or damaged hair you could experience an allergic reaction. Therefore, it is essential that each time you colour your hair you follow these simple precautionary tests.

Techniques

There are so many ways to colour that will make your style stand out – try out some simple techniques for show-stopping results!

Highlight cap
  1. Carefully brush your hair off your face.
  2. Starting at the crown, place the cap on your head. Pull the cap down tightly and tie firmly under the chin.
  3. With the hook provided, pull the strands of hair through the pre-pierced holes. Start from the back with the lowest rows as a guideline.
  4. When you have pulled through all the strands required, comb through carefully to remove all tangles.

Tips
  • For soft highlights, pull through a few strands of hair from every other hole. Don’t puncture the pre-pierced hole too deeply with the metal hook.
  • For a dramatic effect, pull larger sections of hair through every hole two or three times. Allow the metal hook to penetrate the hair more deeply.
  • For a subtle, lightening effect, only pull through strands of hair around the face.
  • For a complete brightening, pull through strands of hair all over the head.

Multi-Tonal highlight cap
  1. Carefully brush your hair off your face.
  2. Starting at the crown, place the cap on your head. Pull the cap down tightly and tie firmly under the chin.
  3. With the hook provided, pull the strands of hair through the pre-pierced holes. Start from the back with the lowest rows as a guideline.
  4. When you have pulled through all the strands required, comb through carefully to remove all tangles.

Using foils – Undercolour
  1. Divide the hair by making a horizontal line approximately 5cm above the ear, from temple to temple, using a tailcomb. Gather the upper hair into a knot and secure on top of your head with a clip.
  2. With the tail of your comb, take a 2cm deep x 3cm wide section of hair from the lower part of your head. Place foil underneath the hair to be coloured.
  3. Secure the foil with fingers and apply colour to hair without going above the top of the foil.
  4. Fold the foil in half upwards and then in half again, fold both sides inwards to create a rectangular parcel.
  5. Repeat this process for all sections of hair, according to the correct development times.

Using foils – Slices
  1. Divide the hair by making a horizontal line approximately 5cm above the ear, from temple to temple, using a tailcomb. Gather the upper hair into a knot and secure on top of your head with a clip.
  2. With the tail of your comb, take a 2.5cm section beneath the parting and, holding it taut with one hand, start to weave up and under through the section of hair. Allow the hair under the tail to drop, holding securely on to the top section.
  3. Place the tail end of the comb under the 1cm fold of the foil and place the foil under the woven section of hair. Bring the hair down against the foil and hold taut. Apply the colour mixture.
  4. Fold the foil in half upwards and then in half again, fold both sides inwards to create a rectangular parcel.
  5. Repeat this process for all sections of hair, according to the correct //HYPERLINK HERE?// development times.

Using foils – Tips
  1. Using a tailcomb, start from the front and isolate a 1.5cm section from the hairline, temple to temple. Hold the rest of the hair up with a hair clip. Hold the section and starting on the left, halve the section horizontally two-thirds along with the tailcomb.
  2. Mix a quarter of the highlight cream and begin to apply starting 0.5cm down from the top of the foil, ensuring you achieve good coverage.
  3. Let the hair under the tail fall and place a foil half way down the section.
  4. Apply the mixture from this point down to the end of the hair. If you do not want a straight line appearing across this section of hair, turn the brush sideways on, so the slim side is upward, and apply the mixture, making sure you get an uneven edge to the colour.
  5. Fold the foil in half upwards and then in half again, fold both sides inwards to create a rectangular parcel.
  6. Repeat this process from the other side, then apply to the centre section.
  7. Repeat for all sections of hair, according to the correct //HYPERLINK HERE?// development times.

Using foils – Chunks

This technique is used to create a dramatic block colour effect.

  1. Style your hair as you would normally, especially if you have a specific parting. With the tailcomb, isolate a 3cm section of hair you wish to colour. Secure the rest of the hair with a clip.
  2. Take a 1cm section beneath the parting and hold it taut with one hand. Place the tail end of the comb under the 1cm fold of the foil and place the foil under the section of hair. Bring the hair down against the foil and hold taut. Apply the colour mixture, ensuring good coverage.
  3. Fold the foil in half upwards and then in half again, fold both sides inwards to create a rectangular parcel.
  4. Repeat this process for all sections of hair, according to the correct //HYPERLINK HERE?// development times.

Handy hints
  • For soft highlights, pull through a few strands of hair from every other hole. Don’t puncture the pre-pierced hole too deeply with the metal hook.
  • For a dramatic effect, pull larger sections of hair through every hole two or three times. Allow the metal hook to penetrate the hair more deeply.
  • For a subtle, lightening effect, only pull through strands of hair around the face.
  • For a complete brightening, pull through strands of hair all over the head.
  • To achieve a more natural colouring effect, turn the brush sideways on so the slim side is upward. Apply the mixture using long strokes.
  • For soft highlights, apply less colour to the brush and skim the section of hair, using gentle strokes. For a bolder effect, load more colourant onto the brush and apply deeper into the section of hair.
  • Part your hair as you normally wear it. A few soft highlights along the parting give your style definition and direction.
  • For a more natural look, avoid the parting area when highlighting.
  • Apply highlights slightly back from the hairline, approximately by 1cm. This will provide a subtler effect if you put your hair up.
  • Don’t be afraid to mix up the techniques – try bold and soft highlights together.
  • To aid the removal of a highlight cap, sprinkle little talcum powder inside before you start, being sure to remove the excess before you begin colouring.


Development Times

Development times will vary according to your natural hair colour and type, so it is essential that you perform a strand test before you colour, to establish your exact development time.

Smart Beauty Smart Blonde

Blonde hair – 30 minutes

Light brown – 30-60 minutes

Dark brown – 60-90 minutes

Toner development time

Platinum Blonde – 2-3 minutes

All other colours – 5-10 minutes

Smart Beauty Smart Highlights – Cool Blonde

Light Blonde – 10-30 minutes

Dark Blonde – 15-45 minutes

Light Brown – 20-60 minutes

Dark Brown – 60-90 minutes

Smart Beauty Smart Highlights – all other colours

Light Blonde 20-30 minutes

Dark Blonde 25-35 minutes

Light Brown 25-45 minutes

Dark Brown 35-55 minutes

Smart Beauty Smart Duos

Soft effect – 15-30 minutes

Medium effect – 30-60 minutes

Vibrant effect – 60-90 minutes

Smart Beauty Smart Colour Permanent

Light Blonde – 20 minutes

Dark Blonde – 20 minutes

Light Brown – 20 minutes

Dark Brown – 20 minutes

Smart Beauty Semi Permanent

All colours – 20mins*

* For best results, use on pre-lightened hair

 

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